There is no optimum state on my horizon, nor am I there now, nor do I plan on figuring out what it is.

I don’t believe in optimization.

So many people want my secrets for a better head.

What’s the fastest way to get better as a climber? Is it developing strength? It is refining your technique? Is it getting a really hot boyfriend?

Climbers like to think of themselves as functional people.

The Happy and Sad boulder gardens in Bishop were born from fields of ash that flew out of a volcano seven hundred thirty thousand years ago.

Part of what keeps us climbers moving is dreaming about what doesn’t yet exist, what hasn’t already happened.

The harder you climb, the more people look up to you.

Patience may not be a word you associate with rock climbing.

Today is the type of day when you think you’ll do well.